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Lawn care fundamentals

The Northern Virginia Lawn Care Calendar

By , Owner & CEOB.S. Landscape Horticulture · VDACS certified applicator #141054

Published Updated

Short answer

Northern Virginia lawns are cool season turf in a transition zone climate, so the year has two growing peaks and one survival stretch. Fall, from late August to early November, is the most productive season, and that's when you aerate, overseed and apply the heaviest feedings. Spring is for crabgrass pre-emergent and a light feeding, and summer is for protecting what you have.

The month by month calendar.

Do the heavy work in fall, prevent crabgrass in spring, and protect the lawn in summer. Dates shift a week or two with the weather, and soil temperature beats the calendar.

Lawn care timing for tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass in Northern Virginia
MonthWhat the lawn is doingWhat to do
JanuaryDormantStay off frozen turf and plan the year.
FebruaryDormant, soil thawingService the mower and sharpen the blade.
MarchGreen-up beginsApply crabgrass pre-emergent when soil hits 55°F at 2 inches, usually mid-March.
AprilFast top growthFeed lightly, make the first mowing at 3.5 inches, and spot treat broadleaf weeds.
MayPeak spring growthApply a slow release feeding and the second pre-emergent split, and watch for stiltgrass.
JuneGrowth slowing, heat startingRaise mowing to 4 inches and watch for brown patch.
JulyHeat and drought stressWater deeply instead of daily and skip heavy nitrogen. Mosquito and tick pressure peaks.
AugustWeakest point of the yearFocus on keeping it alive, and late in the month schedule aeration and overseeding.
SeptemberBest growing monthCore aerate, overseed and feed, since this is the most valuable month.
OctoberRoots growing hardKeep new seed watered, feed again and keep mowing.
NovemberTop growth stops, roots continueGive the final feeding, make the last mow at 3 inches and remove leaves.
DecemberDormantClear leaves and debris.

Why is fall more important than spring in Virginia?

Cool season grass builds roots when the soil is warm and the air is cool, and that only happens here from late August through October. A lawn fed and seeded in September goes into July with deeper roots and more plants per square foot. Pushing growth in April only gives you soft tissue for brown patch to feed on in June.

March to May, get ahead of crabgrass.

Crabgrass germinates when soil at two inches holds around 55°F, typically mid-March to early April in Northern Virginia. That's a week or two earlier inside the Beltway around Fairfax than out west toward Warrenton.

  • Apply crabgrass pre-emergent before soil hits 55°F, whatever the calendar says.
  • Feed lightly with a moderate slow release rate.
  • Start mowing at 3.5 inches and never remove more than a third of the blade.
  • Skip spring seeding, because new seedlings almost never survive their first NoVA summer.

June to August, protect the lawn and don't push it.

In summer, protect the lawn instead of forcing growth. Once soil reaches the 80s, tall fescue slows on purpose, and nitrogen spends reserves it can't replace until fall. Water deeply, about an inch a week in one or two early morning soakings, and mow at four inches to shade the soil and slow crabgrass.

  • Brown patch shows up as circular tan patches in humid stretches, worst in shade and low airflow.
  • Grub damage appears in late July and August as turf that lifts like carpet.
  • Mosquito and tick pressure peaks, especially along wood lines and leaf litter.

September to November, the season that builds the lawn.

Fall is when a Northern Virginia lawn is built. Soil is warm, nights are cool and disease pressure has broken, so everything goes into roots. If you do one thing each year, do aeration and overseeding, which is $279 flat for lots up to a quarter acre with us. Fertilization and weed control visits start at about $50.

  1. Core aerate to open compacted clay, late August through October.
  2. Overseed right after, so seed lands in the open holes.
  3. Water lightly and often for two to three weeks, then taper to deep soakings.
  4. Feed in September and again in late October or early November.
  5. Ask about compost topdressing if the soil is worn out as well as compacted.

December to February, leave it alone.

Dormant turf needs almost nothing from December through February. Keep leaves cleared, stay off frozen grass, and sharpen the mower blade, since a dull blade shreds fescue and gives disease an entry point all season.

The five dates that matter most.

The five dates that matter most are mid-March, late May, early September, mid-October and early November.

  • Mid-March for pre-emergent, before soil reaches 55°F
  • Late May, the last comfortable window for a real feeding before the heat
  • Early September for aeration and overseeding
  • Mid-October for the second fall feeding
  • Early November for the final feeding and last mow

FAQ

Common questions.

Still curious? You can call (703) 268-9900 or text us or browse the full FAQ.

Before soil at two inches reaches about 55°F, usually mid-March to early April here. Watch soil temperature, since a warm February can pull the window forward by a week or more. See our crabgrass prevention guide.

You can, but most tall fescue seeded in spring dies in its first July. If the lawn is too bare to wait, seed in spring to hold the soil, then plan a real fall aeration and overseeding.

Several times across the growing season, weighted toward fall. Slow release nitrogen every 10 to 12 weeks in the cool months keeps color steady. See the fertilization guide.

Three and a half inches most of the year, raised to four inches in July and August. Taller grass shades the soil and blocks light from crabgrass seed. Drop to about three inches for the final mow.

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